Hello everyone! You often ask me in the comments to make a workshop review. And here it is! Hammers. The hammers should be different shapes, sizes, and weights. And it is very important to have them nearby. I have this new cart. With wheels. It helps me to keep the hammers near me while I work, this is very convenient. The fact that I can roll it around is a great advantage. Besides the hammers, I have a gas-cutting torch here. More about it later. This is my heaviest hammer. It weighs around 4 kg, I work with it on helmets. This kind of sledgehammer is used for the steel 2-3 mm thick. This is the longest hammer. This is for when you have a spot that is hard to reach, for example, half of the helmet. The regular hammer can’t reach this spot and you won’t have a possibility to work on this part. And this one can and the handle doesn’t hit the edge. These hammers are very rarely sold. I got lucky once, I was offered to buy a collection of these hammers and I bought them right away. But don’t despair. You can just remake the hammers which are sold. For example, this one was remade from the regular small sledgehammer. This is quite easy, it is like we buy a blank which already has a hole and a handle. We take it off, fixate it, heat it, stretch it out, temper it and we get a needed shape which we can’t just go and buy. This is important for any workshop or smithy, learn how to make your own hammers. Which is why you need to work on your forging skill, even if it is not your main one. So you can make your own instruments. Oh, and here is the first hammer I tried to make. This is a rail. This hammer was made without using the needed tools. It was forged on the vice clamps, with what was on hand, but it was finished eventually. The shape was crooked, so I added some welding to make it right. But it is still working, even though it is more than 13 years old. By the way, it had a tail, but it broke off and I didn’t weld it back. By the way, about the welding. This hammer has broken 2 times already. In this spot. One of the times is broke, I welded it with heating, forged it, polished it and now it hasn’t been broken for 4 years. So, broken hammers can be repaired. Don’t throw them out. Here is another one which broke. It was broken here and I welded it and added this kind of belt. It is a decorative piece as well as a strengthening one. And now it doesn’t break. It also had a tail which broke off and I threw it out, as I didn’t weld well back then, around 7 years ago. And I thought there was no sense in welding if it broke off. When I welded a lot, the hammer broke quicker. Besides the hammers, I need different gadgets like a chisel, molds for bending the material, Some items require this molds whee you can curve the steel underneath and work on top. These different things should also be nearby, as they are changed quickly. You work with one, put it back take the different one. Everything should be comfortable for your work. It is very important to have this kind of horn for making armor. If we need to work on something like this, fix something, it is impossible without such a horn. You take the hammer, take the rivet off. And work. Such horns dangled a lot before. They dangle now as well, but I added some weight. There is a box with sand and gravel on the bottom. I made the mass bigger, so the horn doesn’t dangle. As you can see, it stays in place, it jumped a lot before and it really disturbs the work. If everything shifts after one hit, you can’t make the next one in the same spot. And if everything stays in its place, you start hitting the right spot and work. And if it dangles, you can’t work. Regular 100 kg anvil. But there’s a nuance, it is quite high. Smiths say that such anvils should be placed lower. On the level of the strongest hit while standing straight. Like this. So the strongest hit is somewhere lower. At the hip level, let’s say. But the thing is, I don’t use the strong hit on the anvil. I need it just to smooth out the sheet steel. This how it looks like. I stand, and smooth it out with slight hits. Besides that, I need to see well. If the item is far away, I won’t be able to see the surface I work on. This is why I had to work like this on the low anvils, and the load on the lower back is not good. You won’t want anything after 2 hours of such work. Here I can stand straight and work. This anvil is high, but I have another which is lower. Here I can forge something stronger. We raise the hand and hit just right around the hip. But when I have to make ribs or some curves here, which require precision and understanding of where is the material, this is when you have to bend and work like this, it is not always comfortable. Which is why you should choose what is more important, a high anvil for delicate work or if you often work with thick material, and you need strong hits, of course, the high one is not an option. You need it lower. Vice clamps. I use steel-leg vise. They are not afraid of hits. Such vice clamps hold the gadgets well. These clamps dangle a bit. This is not bad, this is great. When they turn, they clench the detail as strong as possible. And the screws of these vice clamp can withstand all sorts of hits. These things are quite long-lasting. These vice clamps are the first ones I bought and I’ve had them for more than 10 years. And even back then I bought them used. I don’t know how old are they, but I don’t have any complaints, they work well. They are a bit rusty and that’s it. But this is cleaned and repaired without any issues. This is why I’m using these vice clamps for my work. Here is another steel-leg clamp. Besides, I have some gadgets for dishing here. They can be taken out or changed is needed. We have some kind of gadget in the clamps, various pits here, we forge an elbow, correct it, and continue forging. It is quite easy to make these shapes and molds. You buy a round piece and grind a pit with an angle grinder. Or you can order it from machinist, but you need to understand: if you can make it in two hours, and machinist takes 1000 uah for his work, it is better to do it yourself. At the same time, if you feel you need 2 days to grind it, or 3 days, and machinist takes 1000 uah for his work, it is better to take it to him. So, think and count. The traditional smithcraft involves the use of heating. And if the smithy must have a horn, I don’t need it that much. I can use the gas-cutting torch which works on propane and oxygen. For more comfortable work you can but these gas-cutting torch. It is quite simple. You light a candle. Make a fire. That’s it, it turns off automatically. And the preset flame turns on automatically as well. This is a useful thing, but you need to know the important part. If don’t have much space, as I did for a long time, and you have it in your way any accidental dropping of the torch to the floor can result in the hose on the floor which spets flame with pressure. and it is not very hard to cut the hose with it. Which will cause some serious consequences. Which is why I didn’t want to get it when I didn’t have space where it is hard to drop it. This is very useful, but you need to understand that besides the danger of dropping it, you need to think about what you have above the flame. When I installed this torch, the ceiling became black. I had to get this air vent. Now the hot air goes outside. here you can see the black soot on the wall, so be ready to deal with it. This is important during summer when it is hot anyway, and the heat doesn’t leave the room, it is very bad. Which is why you should use an air vent. Instead of the pits made on the lathe machines, I thought of something else for helmet forging. I just have a pipe. Without bottom. This is where I forge the helmets. I made it because it is expensive to order the pits made on the lathe machine. And the easiest way out is to take any pipe, and it works. I made a lot of helmets on it, it works perfectly. I made it 10 years ago and it still works. Here I have the blacksmith’s vice. I talked about them, they can withstand the intense hitting. One of the main tools I need to make helmets is this curved part. The thing is, the helmet is not purely spherical shape. And after I get some kind of sphere on the pit, I need to curve it and make it elliptical, cone half-cylinder shape. I can use this thing. I combine forging on the pit, on the round holes with this thing and I can achieve a lot. And it all should be nearby. I forged here, stretched it a bit here, everything is close and on hand. This is quite useful. Here is the gas-cutting torch. And the hose goes to the wall. This means that the ballons are in the different place. The ballons are outside. In a closed box. It opens. Oxygen and propane. One thing, the propane should stand further away from the oxygen one. But I can’t do it right now. But in the future, I will do it. This is my working place on the outside. Yes, it is cold, but I don’t breathe dust this way. If I use these disks inside, the air is quickly filled with abrasive dust. But even outside you should use a respirator. Here is where I make the polishing. Motor. And petals. This is self-made. I had a motor, and I added a bunch of stuff to it. The important thing is lighting where you polish. The better we see, the better is the polishing. Of course, it would be great to have the cutting and polishing inside and have decent warm conditions, but I don’t want to do it without good air vents. Which is why I choose to polish outside. Not so long ago I got this beast. And I’m not confident in using it just yet. This is the press forge. The thing is quite useful, but the complicated part is that I have to make a lot of shapes and gadgets for it. And I even need to invent them. I can’t just go and see how people make it, I need to experiment, check it during my work and if I fail, make it again. So I don’t use it a lot currently. To forge thick pieces of steel with heating. The important variables for press forge are the strength and speed of it. The speed is a very important thing. And if it lowers by 2 mm/second, you won’t be able to do anything. Even the power is 100 tons, you won’t do anything. Because the speed is unnoticeable. The speed here is around 3 cm/second. It is good. With this speed, I can chew the thin sheet by quickly raising and lowering, And with this speed, if the material is hot, we can work on more surface while the material is still hot. This is important. Here is this corner I have the welding. Here is the welder. The light turns on. The welding is half-automated, you can the ballon of the carbon dioxide. I don’t weld with electrodes. But with the wire. Any grandmother or kid can learn how to weld with wire. Well, I think better not. It is quite harmful for the health. And the important part is the air vent. I didn’t finish it properly. There it is, making noises. I didn’t’ get and umbrella for the vent, but you need the air vent for the welding. Or else you will breathe in all that accumulates after the welding. So if you install a welder and plan on welding a lot, think about how you will ventilate your room. By the way, the important thing for the armorer is a mannequin. If you are making a cuirass, something big: cuirass, brigantine… it is very hard to do without the possibility to fit it, put in on the body. For me this is hard. When I got a couple of such mannequins it became a lot simpler. Yes, the size might be a bit different. But we have some sort of starting point. And also we can move away and see how it all looks. Because when we work with the big thing we see it at arm’s length. But on the pictures, in the museums, we see it farther away. The view angle is different so the geometry is seen differently. So here works the standard trick of the artists, when you move away from the work and look at it from the distance. The big working table is great. You can make a working mess and still have some space. But I don’t like it, honestly, because I don’t have shelves here. Some kind of drawers. As you can see I have a couple of shelves with junk, and it doesn’t look good. In the future, I’d like to have workbenches with shelves. Because then all will be organized and in order. And I don’t like it how it is now, it doesn’t look good. The width of the table is 92 cm, this a lot, honestly. I think 80 cm would have been enough. I need to reach if I want to get something there. It is quite uncomfortable. the workbenches with shelves would be great. The furnace for tempering. Oh, here is a helmet. It’s even warm. The furnace is for tempering and for drawing the harness. The thing is when we forge the steel, especially if it is carbon, we get some strain-hardening and tension. And to remove these tensions, we need to draw the steel. The drawing is when we heat the product in the furnace to some degree, for example, 800 degrees. and turn it off with the stove and let it cool down slowly. All of the tensions are removed this way, and we get a soft, evenly tensioned material. Which can be worked on, smoothed out, and tempered. Here I have a water barrel. I work with the 30 hgsa steel and steel 45, and they are effectively quenched with water. Which makes me happy. Because if you quench it in oil, the smoke rasies in the room anf it is very bad. This is a Bullerjan stove. It is cold during the winter and we use this stove for heating. It burns wood and heats quite well. There are no problems with heating during winter. Here I have a second gas-cutting torch. This is a place for delicate work, where I work with thin titan, greaves, elbows. Here I have a small air hammer. Here is how it works. Here is a motor. It turns a wheel. The wheel is from a scooter. The wheel is turning and raises the hammerhead which hits the base. One of the coolest things I have in the workshop is a flattening machine. It is made out of air hammer. This is a second variant, the first one was without lifting up, And it was uncomfortable. You had to set the level, and different tools of different heights created a lot of problems. Now I just press the top flattening hammerhead to the surface with my leg, and smooth it out. You have seen it in my videos. The construction is primitive, there’s a dangling part that is controlled by the leg, There’s this bar that is secured and doesn’t move. There’s a part that fixates the hammerhead certain position. Because it can shift and this movement can disturb the smoothing out process. We will bend and break the material. Which is why this detail was added. I don’t like it actually, so I will change it. Stanely perforator, longlasting. Such conditions are great for an air hammer. There’s no dust, it is in one place. And it hits one spot. Which is why it doesn’t wear out much. Although I had some breakages here, I went to the service center and they’ve repaired it quickly. And it works. I plan on making the second one, and even make a video. When I will get around to it, there will be one more video. This is my failed experiment with a hydro press of 50 tons. I didn’t fully understand what is a hydro press and how it works, I purchased this Torin press, 50 tons and I thought that I need 50 tons. As it turns out, I need no more than 20 tons for my work. But the reason I can’t use this press is the speed of the cylinder. It is very low. When I plug it in the compressor, I just don’t see how it moves. Yes, there is a lot of strength, but I need frequent pressing. And it is impossible here. This is great for car repair shops where you need to push out some bearing. Or roll out something, I don’t know what they do. This is just dead weight, I need to sell it. Don’t repeat my mistakes. Such presses are not good for armor forging. You need frequent pressing. Here is a place where I sew. Unfortunately, I have to do things like sewing the aventails, helmet liners and so on, this is a part of the helmet. Helmets are what I usually make. I have one industrial sewing machine, And a standard second sewing machine. But mainly you have to do it by hand because you can’t sew anything onto the helmet using the machine. Here I’m trying to create a nice corner where I can show or tell something, and I plan to change it. Well, that’s it! The workshop of a modern armorer. There is no scary technologies or secrets. I think my craft is similar to that of chisellers, tinsmiths, and blacksmiths. Something in the middle. The fact is that armorer should be partly a metal sculptor. My name is Vyacheslav Perepelitsa, this is the ArmorySmith Workshop. Bye!